How to do a top yoke conversion on an 1150...

With budget options!

Words & pictures by Webmaster Taff  

Finally got round to writing this one... did it in May '04 originally.

 NB "for idiots" Disclaimer bit:

  • This info is provided as a "how to" ONLY, and was done outside someone's garage with minimal tools & equipment to show how easy it is to accomplish (and also 'cos that's the only place we could find to do it at the time...)

  • The photos below show persons handling sharp bits of metal and tools in a non-workshop environment, NOT wearing safety footwear, chain mail gloves and, come to think of it, not wearing a full suit of armour with a bubble-wrap oversuit either. This was my choice and if I got hurt (which I didn't), I only had myself to blame...

  • Only you know how competent you are with tools, what you need to wear to protect yourself while using them and where you should be using them. If you injure yourself in ANY WAY while doing this project - IT'S NOT MY FAULT! So don't bother sending your lawyer round on the double for 1 million compensation when you get a bit of swarf in yer thumb...

  • In fact, if you are that way inclined, just put it into the garage and save yourself the legal & medical bills!

  • This info is provided as a "how to" for your bike top yoke ONLY - it's then up to you to make sure your bars are secure and legal before you go thrashing it down the road at high speed...

  • by scrolling further down this page you hereby agree, if you have a go at it, not to send your Mum (or your lawyer either) round my house to throw things at me if you do hurt yourself. Shall we continue now?

Here's what a stock top yoke with clipons looks like for a GSX 1100 EFE (GS 1150). Happy with that? Hit your 'Back' button on yer browser now...

...or, if you are doing the standard mod and fitting a set of conventional bars, here's a 'how to' on how to get this lot off and how to get a top yoke conversion kit on.

A quick note from Mel Nottage, a GS4 reader, before we start:

"... if you like, an easy swap is a GS1100 top yoke, goes right on and then you can choose bars..."

[ Webmaster Taff sez: Cheers mate!!! ]

--- But whatever you are doing, first we need to get the stock stuff off!!!

[ Click on Images for full size image in new window ]

1. Here is a top yoke conversion kit plus a set of flat bars; this kit was scored off Ebay for the price of the bars, and consists of the bars, plus a set of clamps to hold them which clamp over the top of the forks. Depending on what bars you are fitting, you may well need a brake cylinder from an earlier model as well, as the 1150 item is angled to sit correctly on clipons...

2. Start by removing the cross head screw holding the plastic shroud on...

...and remove.

3. Slacken off the adjuster wheel, then the inner adjuster on your clutch cable and remove the cable from the lever. If you have difficulty doing this, remove the bolt holding the lever in the clamp and do it that way.

4. Undo the two cross head screws holding your switchgear together...

... and remove.

5. Undo the cross head screws holding your bar end weights on and remove bar end weights.

6. Pull off grips.

7. Undo the bolt holding on your clutch lever and slide lever assembly off the end of the clipon.

8. Remove the rubber cap on top of the fork leg... undo the allen bolt holding on the clipon...

... and remove. Yes it's really held on with only one allen bolt!

9. At this point, a cheap option presents itself; you can drill the hole where the allen bolt came from using a regular power drill and bolt in a set of standard handlebar clamps; I'm told Bandit ones go in nicely, but then so do Yamaha RD 250 ones as well... but Yamaha Virago 535 are best as they are slightly higher then conventional items.

10. But presuming that you have a set of clamps and bars... now disassemble them to leave you with bars and clamps if they aren't already got it all in kit form.

11. Place clamp over the top of the left fork leg, align and tighten.

12. Ahh yes the right hand side clipon! Remove bar end plus grip, then switchgear and throttle cable assembly as per sections 4 - 6 above. Then undo the two bolts holding on the brake cylinder and remove... then undo allen bolt and remove clipon as per 8. above.

13. Now add the second clamp to the top of the right hand fork, align and tighten.

14. ... then add bars of choice; most people go for the Renthal / motocross bars when discarding the fairing and adding a set of twin headlights... but being different I have gone for a set of flat drag bars as these will work inside the stock fairing.

15. Now replace clutch lever and brake cylinder - as aforemention, the stock 1150 item is angled so won't work with flat bars. I have used a brake cylinder from a GSX 1100 ES; this was again an Ebay bargain - I got the whole front brake system with Goodridge hose for 40 quid, sold the calipers for 20 quid to a mate and, with the GSXR front calipers, has completely uprated the front brake system while retaining the stock front wheel!

   ...And here's the finished item - one of the (new, foam) grips disintegrated as I was putting it on hence only one in the picture!

Webmaster's Note; the flat bars here inside the stock fairing work well on the road but do restrict the lock when turning the bike around in the drive due to your hands hitting the underside of the mirrors - an over-zealous MOT man may fail your bike for this one.