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These
are the engine mods I have done so far:
- Wiseco pistons bored to 1216 ccm and compression ratio 12.2/1
(we have had a lot of problems with the Wiseco pistons due to the
fact that they would shrink after a short while because of wrong
bore tolerances and the fact that the piston is almost 33 percent
heavier than stock.)
- Fully race flowed head from a 88 1100 engine (the one with adjustment
screws for the valve clearance)
- Balanced and slightly lightened crankshaft from a GSX 1100F engine
together with clutch assembly (the weak spot in a tuned GSXR 1100
engine is the crankshaft. When producing more than 160 HP on the
rear wheel they tend to break in two pieces. So far my friend have
broken 3 crankshafts, all broken at the exactly same spot. The GSX
1100F crankshaft seems to be stronger due to different sprocket
layout between crankshaft and clutch.)
- Extra oil cooler connected to the oil lines cooling the head.
Oil cooler is located under seat and will cool the oil an extra
7 to 10 degree Celsius. (The oil cooler is only mounted when riding
in southern Europe. During summer time in Denmark the oil temperature
seldom gets above 75-80 degrees. Ideal oil temperature is 75 degrees,
for each 10 degrees more; the engine will loose 3-5 percent of power.)
- 40 mm Mikuni Flatslides in order to feed the beast (I know that
some people don't like the Flatslides but for me they are essential
due to many factors, most important for me is the instant trottle
response and the fact that they make the re-jetting a very easy
task not to mention the performance gain.)
- Dyno ignition coils - Yoshi engine covers
- Yoshi RS 3 race only Duplex Titanium exhaust system (Total weight
3.1 kg :-) )
- Standard ignition box and standard RPM limited at 11.800 RPM's.
(Have tried V&H Power Pack but did not gain any power at all so
it was thrown away. Have tried ignition Advancers as well and my
experience is that it won't work with a tuned engine like mine but
an almost stock engine might gain a little mid-range.)

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