Remote Control Starter
by Wee Man

Ok, so you managed to build the remote control ignition (Streeetfighters issue 99) for your bike without turning the wiring loom into an inferno or burning the cat with the soldering iron. Then you might have been wondering what the second button on the keyfob is used for. Well it can do a number of things, but the thing most Streetfighters readers will want to use it for is a remote starter. When combined with a remote control ignition, you’ll be able to start your bike from across the street. All for less than forty quid. Cooler than a snowman’s knob or what? And if you thought the remote control ignition was easy to fit, this is even easier, would I lie to you?

All parts are from Maplin Electronics (0870 264 6000).

WARNING
I built this system for my GSXR1100M, which has a side stand cut out switch as standard. This doesn’t allow the bike to start in gear with the side stand down. If your bike has one make sure it works. If it doesn’t, then think carefully before installing this system on your bike. Press the “start” button on the keyfob with the bike in gear, then watch from across the street as your bike unceremoniously dumps it’s self on it’s side!

You have been warned!!!

Tools Required:

- Soldering iron and solder
- Wire cutters.
- Wire strippers.
- Multi-meter or test lamp.
- Haynes manual (not essential, but very useful).
- Allen keys and screwdrivers for removing bodywork.


Fitting

As with fitting the Remote Control Ignition system, it’ll be far easier with the bike’s bodywork removed. For me I just had to remove the tank and tailpiece.

Choose a suitable location to mount the Remote Control Device (RCD). Preferably away from heat, electrical interference and somewhere that is reasonably dry.
I chose to mount the RCD in the tailpiece next to the RCD for the remote control ignition. Plenty of room there, and I wanted to wire the starter RCD to the remote control ignition RCD. Meaning a neater install without miles of elecy spaghetti trailing all over my bike

The RCD has 4 wires to be connected up. Two for power and two control wires.

Try to solder all joints where possible and use heat shrink sleeving to cover the joints. This will give a longer lasting and far safer joint than one that has been made with cheap crimps and insulating tape. Insulating tape can unravel after a few weeks causing shorts and damage to the bikes loom and or your health.

Black wire – RCD ground. Connect to battery Negative or a bolt on the frame.

Black wire with White tracer – RCD +12 volts. This wire also needs an inline blade fuse holder fitted. It must have a fuse holder and fuse fitted, 3 amps will do. This wire needs to be connected to a point which only has +12 volts when the ignition is ON. There are plenty of points to choose from e.g. the coils or main fuse. I wired mine to the white control wire of the Remote Control Ignitions RCD, as this only has +12 volts when the ignition is turned on. Wiring the black/white wire to ignition +12 volts stops the bikes starter motor from being turned over if you accidentally press the second keyfob button with the ignition switched off.

Grey control wire – This needs a permanent +12 volt source. The bikes battery Positive will do nicely.

White control wire – This wire I ran from the tailpiece down towards the front of the bike. Cable tying it in place to keep the wire from getting trapped and hiding it from prying eyes. Next identify the wiring loom from the bikes right hand switchgear. Follow the wires from the handlebars down to where it plugs into the bikes main loom. This should have a yellow multi way plug on it (if you own a GSXR1100, that is). As my bike has half it’s fairing where it should be (in the loft!), the yellow multi way plug for the right hand switches is now under the tank.

Next identify the wire from the Start button. On a GSXR1100 it’s Green with a yellow tracer (A Haynes manual for your model of bike will help in identifying wiring. These have excellent colour wiring diagrams). I was able to solder the white RCD control wire to the Green/Yellow wire. I didn’t cut it, as I still wanted to be able to use the Start button on the handlebars if the keyfob’s battery ever went flat.

Depending on what bike you have you might need to add a relay at this point. All depends on the current drawn by the starter relay. This will need to be measured with a multi-meter. If less than 15 amps, no relay will be needed as the RCD can switch currents up to 15 Amps.

That’s basically it. Make sure all connections are good and strong. Cable tie up any loose wiring. Make sure it won’t get trapped or cut by the bodywork or any moving parts.

Re-fit the bodywork.

The RCD will now need to be programmed to recognise the second button on the keyfob as well as setting the RCD’s output to Momentary switching. This is very important for the correct function of the starter. Basically it means the starter will turn over for as long as you hold down the second button on the keyfob.
Full programming instructions are supplied with the RCD.

Testing Press the 1st button on the keyfob to turn the ignition ON.
Then press the second button on the keyfob. All being well the starter should turn over and the bike start. If it doesn’t, re-check all your wiring and make sure the bike is in neutral!

Once working correctly you can have hours of fun confusing passers by as an unmanned bike starts up and stops all on it’s own, whilst you and your mates piss yourselves from across the street. Childish, but fun.


Parts List for Remote Starter
All parts available from Maplin Electronics (0870 264 6000) or www.maplin.co.uk